Namaste everyone! My name is Amit and am visiting PJ here and since jetlag is getting the best of me, I thought I'd commandeer his blog (because he is an imperialist American) and make it a little more interesting/spicy (yeah right)! My travel to Kathmandu was surprisingly smooth except for the almost 12 hr layover in New Delhi, but the new airport renovations and excitement pushed me through. After PJ picked me up, we checked into our hotel, or should I say our "mini" Mt. Everest. Our room is located on the 6th floor with obviously no elevators, so going in and out of our room multiple times during the day proves to be good training for our hike (did anyone say "lazy cow"?), although there is no lack of complaining...by me.
Ca y est, Amit est arrivé à Kathmandu et la partie plus touristique de mon séjour a commencé. Nous avons emmenagé dans un hôtel qui donne directement sur le stupa, comme le montre la photo ci-dessous, et j'ai commencé à lui montrer Kathmandu. Le jour de son arrivée, nous sommes allés au temple de Pashupatinath où il a failli se faire arrêter par la police parce qu'il prenait une photo dans un temple où il ne fallait pas (un temple seulement pour les Hindous, donc j'ai attendu dehors pendant 30 mn, me demandant ce qui pouvait bien se passer). Hier nous sommes allés faire les boutiques (bon, le boutiques népalaises, c'est pas les Galeries Lafayette). Par ailleurs, je lui fais découvrir les spécialités du coin, les soupes de dal, les crèpes à la bannane (très népalais), et surtout le yagourt, dont malheureusement il n'a pas su apprécier le goût si spécial, sans doute parce que "c'est pas assez "épicé" (comme il me dit à chaque fois que je fais quelque chose à manger).
Bref, tout va bien, et demain nous partons pour la région de Sulu-Khumbu, la région du Mont Everest, pour 2 jours de marche pour arriver au village de Namche Bazaar. J'espère vous envoyer un message de là haut, mais on ne sait jamais avec les services internet népalais!
The view of the Stupa outside our window is amazing and is all and more of what PJ described. Kathmandu definitely reminds me of Ahmedabad (except it's in India, but ok), however there is an air of calmness around the people, daily activities, and even the scattered stray dogs that seem to only bark while we're sleeping! Our first day's activities started with banana pancakes and masala chai on the rooftop of the Saturday Cafe (see photo below of my first chai in years!) (isn't that a shame?).
We then walked around Kathmandu and visited the Pashupatinath Mandir. According to my good looking Nepali speaking French "guide", this large complex area is known to be the first Hindu Kingdom in the world (no, he doesn't listen properly: I said Nepal, until the King was overthrown few years ago, was the only Hindu kingdom in the world). As we climbed down to the complex, smoke filled the air coming from the string of platforms along the river bank where cremation ceremonies are held. Although the feeling was somber, there were countless monkeys running, jumping, and playing throughout the area to liven up our stay (see aerial photo below).
Oh of course he did not tell you that he almost got arrested in the main temple because he took a photo he was not supposed to take, and there I am, waiting outside for 30 min - because it's a Hindu temple where white people are not allowed in - wondering what is going on - 1st day, starts great!
The next day, we ventured to another "guide's" selected restaurant and had an array of snacks. Vegetable pakora, aloo paratha, veg momos, and tasty papad were washed down with lemon soda and topped off with some homemade yogurt! The food here really is tasty (except "it's not spicy enough", as he says when I cook something) and there isn't as much of a concern for getting sick as I recall in India.
Today's activities mainly included getting our trekking permit and shopping! As we ventured out of town, I was impressed with PJ's Nepali skills, but strangely it always seemed helpful to have an Indian with him to assure people that he wasn't just some tourist that they could scam. After some paperwork, 2500 N.rupees, and hearing PJ's lecture about why we shouldn't need permits/why they are ripping him off (it's true! Everybody knows I'm right)...we finally got our permits!
Heading to Durbar Square for some shopping was eventful not because there were 15+ people packed in a 10 seater bus, but because bus stops were more like bus "rolls", since you almost jump on as it's moving. The bus "schedule" was also noteworthy since it's more like the bus driver's helper yelling out like an auctioner of where they're going as the wiz by. After a full day of shopping, we retreated back to a restaurant within a monastery where we had some more great food. The most unique thing about this place was that PJ took me to the main square where I secretely witnessed a formal debate exercise (called tsuoba - well more like "tso-pa" - in Tibetan) going on by a group of monks!
Tomorrow, we will visit the historical district of Pathan and head to bed early since the day after we fly out to Lukla to start our hike up the Himalayas!
